BEST VALUE RESTAURANTS

ILLINOIS

MISSOURI

GB -- Good Buy. (Inexpensive)
SH -- Solid Hit. (Moderately priced)
WS -- Worth a Splurge. (Expensive, but worth it)

ILLINOIS

WS WESTERFIELD HOUSE, 8059 Jefferson Road, Freeburg, IL. There's always something great cooking at this gourmet restaurant and B&B, profiled in our Holiday 1994 issue. In a rustic log-cabin Early American setting, diners enjoy an ever-changing and highly inventive menu. Dinner selections may include something called Purple Dinosaur (we'll let you guess what that is), Antipasto, Queen of Hearts Salad, Sweet Potato and Carrot soup, Sorbet, Mixed Grill Trio (Pork Medallions, Lamb Chop and Stuffed Shrimp), Polenta Pepper Souffle and White Chocolate Mousse. There are also luncheons and brunches at lower prices. Call for more details. D/$40 per person. 618-539-5643.

SH WHITE FENCE FARM, Joliet Rd., Lemont, IL. Stuyvesant Peabody's fried chicken recipe has been a secret for 70 years, but it's what attracts diners to this 1920s ranch-style eatery (ten miles north of Joliet). Order the special of the house and get four pieces of chicken, plus pickled beets, bean salad, coleslaw, cottage cheese, potatoes and corn fritters. Closed Mondays. L&D/$10; 708-739-1720.

WS BLACKHAWK LODGE, Chicago, IL. Set incongruously amidst the Windy City's towering skyscrapers along the "Magnificent Mile," this log restaurant resembles a rustic lodge deep in the north woods. Entrees range from pecan-encrusted trout -- sauteed and served in a lime-butter sauce on a bed of Minnesota wild rice, to a bourbon-smoked tenderloin with thick cottage fries. Wonderful desserts, wine list. L/$13; D/$20. 312-280-4080.

SH ELDORADO, 219 North Main St., Galena, IL. Truly one of the finest restaurants in the Midwest, the Eldorado offers exceptional cuisine. There are organically grown veggies and free-range meats, made-from-scratch soups, even margaritas made from freshly squeezed lime juice. Best entrees are the seared tenderloin of pork -- highlighted with a natural sauce of wild mushrooms and Ancho chiles; Grilled breast of Amish-raised chicken served with salsa roja. Cassoulita is a vegetarian casserole of native corn, Anasazi beans and fresh vegetables braised in chilaca sauce with baked with white cheese. Fresh seafood flown in. Try the warm apple galetta with goat-milk caramel for dessert. D/$15.95. 815-777-1224.

WS SHAW'S CRAB HOUSE, 21 East Hubbard, Chicago, IL. This is really two restaurants in one: The Blue Crab Lounge, essentially a raw bar featuring several varieties of of oysters, crab cakes, soups and stews, and a full selection of seafood dishes in a casual, friendly atmosphere; and the special main dining room, which is reminiscent of an old New England seafood house, specializing in a full range of fresh seafood. Seasonal favorites include Stone Crabs, Soft Shell Crabs, Columbia River Spring Chinook Salmon and Nantucket Cape Scallops, to mention a few. Don't miss the Nantucket Cape Scallops (available only Nov. through end of Dec.) Prized for their size, beautiful luster and sweetness, they are sauteed in a light dusting of flour with lemon or garlic butter. Browned outside and delicately tender inside, they are redolent of a wonderfully sweet ocean seafood taste. 7 days (except lounge closed Sundays). L/D/$16. 312-527-2722.

INDIANA

SH ILLUSIONS, 969 Keystone Way, Carmel, IND. Located in this north Indianapolis suburb, you pass through a secret door to a dining room replete with mirrors, antique circus tapestries and posters. Trickery abounds; mysteriously, a black scarf becomes the menu. Entrees include "Spell-bound" -- sauteed medallions with madiera wine demi glaze, asparagus and a ribbon of hollandaise; "Disappearing Duck" -- crirspy roast duck, sauteed apples, in a sauce with a hint of cinnamon. Raspberry torte is the favorite dessert. Meandering Merlins entertain. D/$15.317-575-8312.

IOWA

WS FIRESIDE BLACK ANGUS BAR & GRILL, Hwys. 30 & 60, Toledo, IA. This typical-looking family restaurant just down the road from an Indian casino is not so typical. It has food and service worth driving for. Proportions are huge, the menu diverse, and service truly is with a smile. Little touches add a lot. For example, there are nine different salads made fresh daily. Even the hamburger buns are homemade (and heavenly). The onion rings are out of this world, the steaks first-rate. Don't miss the Apple Praline pie with pecan glaze. Owner Dennis Ross could teach other restauranteuers a thing or two. Best of all, the prices are unbelievably low. L/$5.50; D/$8.50. 515-484-5244.

GB THE SILVER FOX, 1317 Central Ave., Ft. Dodge, IA. Long a favorite of local residents, the atmosphere is warm and friendly, the food eclectic and better than homemade. Try the unusual deep-fried breaded lobster, broiled walleye or a smoked chop. Ala carte items include buttered mushrooms, there are appetizers like gizzards, and sandwiches such as vegetable cheese steaks. An Italian specialty is "Pizzaghetti" -- spaghetti topped with sausage, mushrooms, onions, pepperoni and green peppers, smothered with mozarella cheese and served with garlic toast. Lunch M-Fri.; Dinner 7 days. L/D $6. 515-955-9968.

SH OUR HOUSE/OUR TRAIN, 218 West Main, Panora, IA. (44 miles west of Des Moines, and worth the drive). First came the "Our House" giftshop, a real treasury of fine gifts and collectibles. Then came an 80-ton vintage railroad car (circa 1914), that has been converted into a quaint restaurant next door. There are lite lunch entrees, delightful desserts (including European) and flavored coffees. The menu changes daily, and there is imaginative fare -- including crab crepes served with Newburg sauce; special themed evenings. (Eg. a recent New England dinner included shrimp cocktail, clam chowder, Yankee pot roast, baked beans and Boston creme pie). Luncheon is 11-2, and sampling trays (gorgeous desserts) 2-4 p.m.. The setting is elegant -- redolant of stained glass, fine linens, crystal and flowers.The service attentive. 515-755-2355

GB THE MARKETPLACE, South Amana, IA. Located in a historic 1850s smoke house in the village of South Amana, the Marketplace offers an alternative to the tradition of "family style" dining found within the restaurants of the famed seven Amana colonies. Appetizers include smoked chicken bites, vegetable crudite, "shrimp by choice" and grilled brie (among others). Delicious soups are offered like cheddar ale chowder and also pearl onion. For entrees, there's the hickory grilled pork chop stuffed with rosemary dressing and served with ginger apples; chicken rigatoni and legumes; smoked prime rib; and our favorite, the salmon that's hickory grilled with molasses and bourbon glaze. Desserts include strawberry rhubarb pie and chocolate suicide cake. The Marketplace features a rare domed brick dining room and friendly atmosphere. L/$6.50; D/$12.50. 319-622-6246.

KANSAS

SH DRURY PENNELL HOUSE, 519 N. 5th St. Atchison, KS. Nothing is fried and the meats and poultry are never frozen -- making the food especially unique at this restaurant in a historic Victorian house. Lunch specialty is a Philly sandwich with shaved onions. On the dinner menu there are the naturally aged Kansas City strip steak and filet mignon -- so tender it melts in your mouth. Then try a sundae -- a chocolate cookie crust topped with vanilla ice cream and from-scratch fudge sauce. Lunch Wed.- Fri., Dinner Wed.- Sat. L/$6; D/12. 913-367-4996.

MICHIGAN

WS THE LARK, 6430 Farmington Rd. West Bloomfield, MI. A pricey restaurant, but worth it. The Lark features American and French cuisine served in a classy environment, and an outdoor area when weather permits. Enjoy something called rack of Lamb Genghis Khan; roast Maine lobster; Black angus steaks. Closed Sun. & Mon. D/$35. 313-661-4466.

SH HERMANN'S EUROPEAN CAFE, 214 N. Mitchell St., Cadillac, MI. Located in a brick building at the edge of Michigan's north woods, this casual yet elegant eaterie features its trademark wiener schnitzel, along with more exotic fare like wild boar braised with lingonberries as well as chaantrelle mushrooms and shrimp tempura. The apple strudel is out of this world. Mon.-Sat. L/$5; D/$7.95. 616-775-9563.